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Title: About Time
ISBN: 9781588396884
Format: BB
Authors: Andrew Bolton Jan Giler Reeder Jessica Regan
Pub. Date: 20200609

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Traces fashions from 1870 to the present along a conceptual, disruptive, and nontraditional timeline of fashion history

About Time: Fashion and Duration traces the evolution of fashion, from 1870 to the present, through a linear timeline of iconic garments, each paired with an alternate design that jumps forward or backward in time. These unexpected pairings, which relate to one another through shape, motif, material, pattern, technique, or decoration, create a disruptive fashion chronology that conflates notions of past, present, and future.

Virginia Woolf serves as “ghost narrator,” and excerpts from her novels reflect on the passage of time with each subsequent pairing. A new short story by Michael Cunningham, winner of the Pulitzer Prize for Fiction for The Hours, recounts a day in the life of a woman over a time span of 150 years through her changing fashions. Scholar Theodore Martin analyzes theoretical responses to the nature of time, underscoring that time is not simply a sequence of historical events. Fashion photographer Nicholas Alan Cope captures 120 fashions with sublime black-and-white photography. This stunning book reveals fashion’s paradoxical connection to linear notions of time.

Title: Accessorize!
ISBN: 9780300167658
Format: BC
Authors: Bianca du Mortier Ninke Bloemberg
Pub. Date: 20120925

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From purses to parasols, spectacles to slippers, wigs to walking sticks, the Rijksmuseum has a superb collection of fashion accessories that also includes a rich array of more familiar items: hats, gloves, and shoes for both men and women. Ranging from the 15th to the 21st century, the objects in this stylish book are grouped by color, allowing intriguing juxtapositions of period, material, and type.

Many of these accessories were originally received as gifts on all kinds of occasions and for all kinds of reasons: a souvenir from a distant country sent to the family back home; a pair of gloves or a purse embroidered with symbols of marriage and the couple?s initials; an ivory fan commissioned in Canton, carved with the initials of a lover or inscribed with an amorous allusion; an embroidered cap from a wife to a husband to mark the birth of a child; a fan for a daughter from her grateful parents for her loyal obedience; or a gift for wedding guests to take home.

Superb photography and award-winning design make this an exceptionally desirable book for every follower of fashion with a sense of history.

Title: Alexander McQueen
ISBN: 9780300169782
Format: BB
Authors: Andrew Bolton
Pub. Date: 20110531

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Celebrating the astounding creativity and originality of designer Alexander McQueen, who relentlessly questioned and confronted the requisites of fashion

“An authoritative and moving insight into the legacy of the British designer.”—Carola Long, Financial Times
 
“McQueen’s brilliance is celebrated in this sumptuous tome.”—Harper’s Bazaar
 
“Excellent.”—Huffington Post
 
Arguably the most influential, imaginative, and provocative designer of his generation, Alexander McQueen both challenged and expanded fashion conventions to express ideas about race, class, sexuality, religion, and the environment. Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty examines the full breadth of the designer’s career, from the start of his fledgling label to the triumphs of his own world-renowned London house. It features his most iconic and radical designs, revealing how McQueen adapted and combined the fundamentals of Savile Row tailoring, the specialized techniques of haute couture, and technological innovation to achieve his distinctive aesthetic. It also focuses on the highly sophisticated narrative structures underpinning his collections and extravagant runway presentations, with their echoes of avant-garde installation and performance art.
 
Published to coincide with an exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art organized by The Costume Institute, this stunning book includes a preface by Andrew Bolton; an introduction by Susannah Frankel; an interview by Tim Blanks with Sarah Burton, creative director of the house of Alexander McQueen; illuminating quotes from the designer himself; provocative and captivating new photography by renowned photographer Sølve Sundsbø; and a lenticular cover by Gary James McQueen.
 

Title: Back in Fashion
ISBN: 9780300218848
Format: BB
Authors: Giorgio Riello
Pub. Date: 20200414

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An engaging survey from the Middle Ages to the present, presenting fashion as a complex process that reflects economic, social, and political changes

This engaging volume tells the history of Western fashion, exploring how and why it has influenced people’s attitudes, actions, and beliefs since the Middle Ages. Back in Fashion focuses on themes specific to particular periods—such as the significance of medieval sumptuary laws that limited expenditure on clothing; the use of black in early modern Europe; the role of sports on clothing in contemporary times; and the rise of luxury in the new millennium. Author Giorgio Riello investigates how fashion has shaped and continues to characterize Western societies, impacting the lives of millions of people and their relationship to the economy and politics.
 
Making a masterful case for why fashion history demands academic consideration on par with other more traditional histories, Riello presents fashion as a complex and constantly evolving force that not only reflects but drives cultural transformation.

Title: Charles James
ISBN: 9780300204360
Format: BB
Authors: Harold Koda Jan Giler Reeder
Pub. Date: 20140515

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"His work went beyond fashion and was a fine art." —a Charles James patron

Charles James, often considered to be America’s first couturier, was renowned in the 1940s and 1950s as a master at sculpting fabric for the female form and creating fashions that defined mid-century glamour. Although James had no formal training as a dressmaker, he created strikingly original and complex designs, including intricate ball gowns worn by members of high society in New York and Europe. This lavishly illustrated book offers a comprehensive study of James’ life and work, highlighting his virtuosity and inventiveness as well as his influence on subsequent fashion designers.
 
Featuring exciting new photography of the spectacular evening dresses James produced between 1947 and 1955, this publication includes enlightening details of these intricate creations alongside vintage photographs and rarely seen archival items, such as patterns, muslins, dress forms, and sketches. A detailed and illustrated chronology of James’ life describes his magnetic personality, his unorthodox design processes, his colorful supporters—such as Salvador Dalí, Elsa Schiaparelli, Christian Dior, and Cristobal Balenciaga—and profiles of a number of his famous clients, such as Gypsy Rose Lee. With flair and style echoing that of its subject, Charles James brings to life one of the most fascinating and creative figures in American fashion.

Title: Cotton
ISBN: 9781783206858
Format: BC
Authors:
Pub. Date: 20161115

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This book brings together contributors from a wide range of disciplines to explore the importance of cotton as a major resource for US fashion businesses. It is rooted in a lengthy investigative research project that deployed undergraduate and graduate students and faculty researchers to US fashion businesses that rely on cotton to make their garments—with the goal of better understanding how such a key resource is sourced, priced, transported, manipulated, and, ultimately, sold on to the consumer as a stylish garment. The contributors focus in particular on the role of brands in the marketing of cotton goods, and the way that brand marketing creates distinctions, valuable in the marketplace, between various versions of what are at base similar items of clothing, like t-shirts and underclothes. The book also explores the importance of the “Made in the USA” campaign, with its appeal to consumers concerned about local manufacturing employment, reduced resource use, and social responsibility.
 

Title: Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty
ISBN: 9781841506487
Format: BC
Authors:
Pub. Date: 20120815

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Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty brings together articles from the first volume of this cutting-edge journal—which is also the first of its kind in the field. Taken together, the pieces collected here offer a snapshot of critical debate in fashion, a growing area of scholarly interest.

The volume’s contributors, who come from disciplines across the humanities and social sciences, explore such topics as fashion trends in a global context, including contemporary Italian fashion identity, the kimono’s metamorphoses, the dynamics of luxury and basic fashion after the recent economic crisis, and the negotiation through fashion of social class and feminine identity. Their collective efforts contribute to the journal’s mission: the examination of fashion and beauty systems as symbolic spaces of production, reproduction, representation, and communication of artifacts; meanings; social practices; and renditions of cloth, clothing, and appearance. Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty will therefore interest scholars of fashion and anyone looking for an introduction to this dynamic area of inquiry.


Title: Denim
ISBN: 9780300219142
Format: BB
Authors: Emma McClendon
Pub. Date: 20160301

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A wide-ranging and beautifully illustrated history of the fashion associated with the world’s most ubiquitous fabric

Denim is one of the world’s favorite fabrics, and today it accounts for the largest segment of the clothing industry.  The market for jeans alone is worth over 55 billion dollars. Experiments with denim by designers have helped to develop a vast vocabulary of denim styles beyond jeans that are now ingrained in fashion’s lexicon.  This handsome book explores the multifaceted history of denim and examines the continually evolving relationship between it and high fashion.
 
Prized for its durability and strength, denim began as an ideal fabric for workwear, most famously in the clothing produced by Levi Strauss & Co. for fortune hunters during the 19th-century California gold rush.  Over the past 160 years, however, film, television, and advertising have helped transform denim into a symbol of youth, rebellion, sex, and the ever-ephemeral quality of “cool.” The fashion industry has also played a large role in the expansion of denim into casual and couture clothing. The Denim Council, which formed in the U.S. in the 1950s, promoted denim to an ever-widening circle of customers through the framework of the fashion industry, most notably with presentations during New York fashion weeks.  Featuring previously unpublished archival material from the Denim Council, an insightful text, and copious illustrations, this book offers a new perspective on denim’s rapid rise from the 19th century to today.

Title: Dress in the Age of Jane Austen
ISBN: 9780300218725
Format: BB
Authors: Hilary Davidson
Pub. Date: 20191022

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A comprehensive and beautifully illustrated examination of dress, clothing, fashion, and sewing in the Regency seen through the lens of Jane Austen’s life and writings

This lively book reveals the clothing and fashion of the world depicted in Jane Austen’s beloved books, focusing on the long Regency between the years 1795 and 1825. During this period, accelerated change saw Britain’s turbulent entry into the modern age, and clothing reflected these transformations. Starting with the intimate perspective of clothing the self, Dress in the Age of Jane Austen moves outward through the social and cultural spheres of home, village, countryside, and cities, and into the wider national and global realms, exploring the varied ways people dressed to inhabit these environments. Jane Austen’s famously observant fictional writings, as well as her letters, provide the entry point for examining the Regency age’s rich complexity of fashion, dress, and textiles for men and women in their contemporary contexts.
 
Lavishly illustrated with paintings, drawings, historic garments, and fashion plates—including many previously unpublished images—this authoritative yet accessible book will help readers visualize the external selves of Austen’s immortal characters as clearly as she wrote of their internal ones. The result is an enhanced understanding of Austen’s work and time, and also of the history of one of Britain’s most distinctive fashion eras.

Title: Exhibiting Fashion
ISBN: 9780300125795
Format: BB
Authors: Judith Clark Amy de la Haye
Pub. Date: 20140115

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With the dramatic increase in popularity of fashion exhibitions over the past decade, this groundbreaking book provides a timely look at the evolution of the practice, taking as its anchor the seminal 1971 Victoria and Albert Museum exhibition Fashion: An Anthology by Cecil Beaton, revealing it to be symptomatic of a shift in museological attitudes. The authors' combined experience of more than forty years, one in architecture and exhibition design and the other in fashion history and curating, informs their detailed account of the exhibition. Accompanied by photographs of Beaton's museum work published here for the first time, their narrative establishes a perspective from which to view working practices today.

Research into international exhibitions from the early 20th century to the present results in some 150 stunning illustrations, including previously unpublished exhibition photographs and out-of-print documents. Through this research and the testimony of curators, exhibition designers, and mannequin manufacturers, the authors discover striking continuity in the development of the fundamental equation of mannequin, dress, and mise-en-scène. A comprehensive chronology from 1971 illustrates the exponential rise in exhibitions of Western dress on an international scale.



Title: Fairy Tale Fashion
ISBN: 9780300218022
Format: BB
Authors: Colleen Hill Patricia Mears Ellen Sampson
Pub. Date: 20160326

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A conceptually innovative and visually stunning investigation of the interconnected worlds of high fashion and fairy tales

Dress plays a crucial role in fairy tales, signaling the status, wealth, or vanity of particular characters, and symbolizing their transformation. Fairy tales often provide  little information beyond what is necessary to a plot, but clothing and accessories are frequently vividly described, enhancing the sense of wonder integral to the genre. Cinderella’s glass slipper is perhaps the most famous example, but it is one of many enchanted or emblematic pieces of dress that populate these tales.
                                                                                                                                   
This is the first book to examine the history, significance, and imagery of classic fairy tales through the lens of high fashion. A comprehensive introduction to the topic of fairy tales and dress is followed by a series of short essays on thirteen stories: “Cinderella,” “Little Red Riding Hood,” “The Fairies,” “Sleeping Beauty,” “Beauty and the Beast,” “Snow White,” “Rapunzel,” “Furrypelts,” “The Little Mermaid,” “The Snow Queen,” “The Swan Maidens,” Alice's Adventures in Wonderland, and The Wonderful Wizard of Oz. Generously illustrated, these stories are creatively and imaginatively linked to examples of clothing by Comme des Garc¸ons, Dolce and Gabbana, Charles James, and Alexander McQueen, among many others.

Title: Fashion and Ethics
ISBN: 9781783202133
Format: BC
Authors:
Pub. Date: 20140215

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Fashion and Ethics?focuses on issues of power, social positioning, and practices among creators, producers, practitioners, wearers, and consumers of fashion. With a special emphasis on the moral fabric of clothing, contributors to the book offer a critique of some of the fundamental assumptions of ethical fashion and expose how products are often framed as fair trade in order to relieve consumers' guilt.

With essays that problematize issues such as ethical fashion's self-appointed morality, the first-world notion that the environment should take priority over human development, the conflict between business profit and ethics, the unintended agendas involved in consuming green cosmetics or ethical culinary trends, and the discursive strategies of denial of the extreme cruelty in the procurement of animal skin and fur for use in fashion,?Fashion and Ethics?applies its uncompromising scrutiny to all areas of fashion. Throughout, the volume forces readers to confront the question: Does ethical fashion go deep enough into challenging unethical behavior or is it just a charade of good intentions?

Title: Fashion and Politics
ISBN: 9780300238860
Format: BB
Authors: Djurdja Bartlett
Pub. Date: 20190827

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A timely and splendidly illustrated global exploration of the complex intersections of fashion and politics from the mid-19th century to the present day

Taking a multifaceted look at a topic of widespread fascination, this pioneering book presents new research on the intersection of fashion and politics through incisive essays by the field’s leading voices, including both renowned and emerging fashion scholars. The texts unpack fashion between the mid-19th century and today as expressions of nationalism, terrorism, surveillance, and individualism, as well as a symbol of capitalism.
 
The first section explores the political potential of fashion despite its immutable status as a commodity. The second section offers a historical account of the political nature of dress, such as the fashion of dissent within Mao’s Cultural Revolution and the Black Panther movement. The ways bodies are defined by dress—the entanglement of oppression and expression—is the theme of the third section. A fourth and final section explores contemporary issues in the practice and theory of dress, from the processes of decolonizing museum collections to the recent sartorial styles of Europe’s political Left. The book’s incisive and beautifully illustrated essays provide a timely investigation of an underdeveloped topic through a variety of historical and current formats, including public and personal archives, fashion magazines, political newspapers, museum displays, art, and social media.

Title: Fashion and War in Popular Culture
ISBN: 9781841507514
Format: BC
Authors:
Pub. Date: 20140315

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Aside from the occasional nod to epaulets or use of camouflage, war and fashion seem to be strange partners. Not so, argue the contributors to this book, who connect military industrial practices as well as military dress to textile and clothing in new ways. For instance, the book includes a series of commentaries on the impact of military dress in the airline industry, in illustrated wartime comics, and even considers today's muscled soldier's body as a new type of uniform. Elsewhere, the impacts of conquest introduce a new set of postcolonial aesthetics; this is because military and colonial regimes disrupted local textile production and garment making. In another chapter, it is argued that textiles and fashion are important because they reflect a core practice, one that bridges textile artists and designers in an expressive, creative, and deeply physical way to matters of cultural significance. And the book concludes by calling the very mode of "military chic" into ethical question.

The premier text to illustrate the impact of war on textiles, bodies, costume, art, and design,?Fashion and ?War in Popular Culture?will be warmly welcomed by scholars of fashion design and theory, historians of fashion, and those interested in theories of warfare and military science.

Title: Fashion Design
ISBN: 9780470655771
Format: BC
Authors: Kathryn McKelvey Janine Munslow
Pub. Date: 20111202
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons (UK)
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Shows how the design process can be successfully applied to satisfy market needs and trends

Fashion design seems to be a glamorous mystery for which only the fortunate few have sufficient talent to succeed. In reality, commercially successful results can be achieved if the right processes are followed in the early design process.

Fashion Design sets out basic principles and exercises in order to make fashion design a logical process, providing a framework from which they can expand your skills steadily.

Fashion Design, 2nd Edition:

  • Shows how the design process can be successfully applied to satisfy market needs and trends
  • Has a problem solving approach, with practical design projects and portfolio exercises to encourage readers to develop their innovation, experimentation and versatility
  • Pays special attention to computer-aided design (CAD) and employment opportunities, including an overview of what is involved in studying and becoming a designer in the contemporary fashion industry.

Title: Fashion Forecasting
ISBN: 9781405140041
Format: BC
Authors: Kathryn McKelvey Janine Munslow
Pub. Date: 20080926
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons (UK)
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Everyone in the fashion business needs to develop an essential survival skill: how to interpret the intelligence provided by the fashion forecasting industry, to anticipate and respond to emerging trends.


Lavishly illustrated in full colour throughout, with clear and relevant explanations of the processes involved, Fashion Forecasting is for fashion students and young professionals who already have acquired some fashion knowledge and skills. The authors interviewed the key players within this exciting industry and provide here fascinating insights into the dynamic contemporary fashion forecasting world and the varied creative roles within it - from intelligence gatherers to project consultants. The book covers how a trend is sourced, anticipated and developed, and also explores the interaction with marketing and brand development.


Title: Fashion Plates
ISBN: 9780300197709
Format: BC
Authors: April Calahan
Pub. Date: 20161004

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A sumptuously illustrated, encyclopedic chronicle of fashion and its trends, from the 18th to the early 20th century

Prior to the invention of photography, European and American magazines used colorful prints to depict the latest fashion trends.  These illustrations, known as “fashion plates,” conveyed the cutting-edge styles embraced by the fashion-conscious elite and proved inspirational to the upwardly mobile. This lavishly illustrated book provides a comprehensive survey of 200 color plates from publications dating from 1778 to the early 20th century, accompanied by authoritative and fascinating texts.  Organized chronologically and featuring both men’s and women’s garments, these lively and colorful vignettes not only are beautiful, but also deftly illustrate the evolution of fashion over time.
 
 

Title: Fashion Source Book
ISBN: 9781405126939
Format: BC
Authors: Kathryn McKelvey
Pub. Date: 20060201
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons (UK)
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This comprehensive source book sets out over 1750 working drawings of garments, accessories and their details, which can be used for reference while designing. Each drawing, which may be a historical, classical, ethnic or inspirational example, is correctly named and fully described in the extensive glossary, thus providing the visual information that is lacking from fashion dictionaries.


In addition, a range of useful fashion poses is provided for women, men and children (from birth to teenage) with instructions on how these may be developed by readers and used as templates for their own illustrations. All the illustrations are copyright-free, enabling readers to use and adapt as they wish.


All the illustrations have been redrawn traditionally then subjected to contemporary computer graphics techniques with a view to clearly communicating shape and detail. As much ?fabric representation? as possible has been illustrated, on relevant garments, to give an authentic feel and a variety of complex patterns, prints and textures employed using computer graphics tools.


Title: Fashion Underground
ISBN: 9780300214628
Format: BB
Authors: Valerie Steele Melissa Marra Susanne Bartsch
Pub. Date: 20151008

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A lavishly illustrated tribute to one of the most remarkable self-invented personalities on the New York fashion scene

Susanne Bartsch has been the queen of New York City nightlife since the 1980s when she first became famous for spectacular parties, where a diverse crowd brought fashion to the level of performance art. Her most important party was undoubtedly the 1989 Love Ball, a pioneering AIDS benefit that brought the fashion world together. The Love Ball was followed by other parties, which ultimately raised more than $2.5 million for AIDS research and advocacy. Over the years, Bartsch has had a profound impact on the world of fashion and visual culture. She has been a retailer, a fashion show organizer, a muse, and a catalyst. As Holly Brubach wrote in her 1991 New Yorker profile, “If there is a theme that runs through the various jobs Bartsch has held, it is perhaps a fascination with the way people present themselves—with the clothes and the part they play in people’s imagination.”
 
Fashion Underground: The World of Susanne Bartsch features approximately 80 looks from Bartsch’s personal collection of clothing and accessories, including designs by Rachel Auburn, Body Map, Leigh Bowery, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler, Mr. Pearl, Vivienne Westwood, Zaldy, and many others. Dazzling color photographs allow readers to witness the incredible art of transformation. 


An unprecedented examination of the impact of fashion on society in France throughout the Great War

This fascinating exploration of French women’s fashion during World War I is the first in-depth consideration of the role that fashion played in the upheaval of French society between 1914 and 1918. As the fashion industry—the second largest industry in the country—mobilized to help the war effort, Parisian couture houses introduced new styles, aggressively disseminated information through magazines, and strengthened their propaganda efforts overseas. Women of all social classes adapted their garments to the wartime lifestyle, and practicality was increasingly introduced in the form of pockets and “sportswear” textiles like jersey.
 
While women were heralded for contributing to the war effort, the clothes they wore while doing so often provoked debates, particularly when their attire was seen as too masculine or militaristic. With focused studies of wartime garments such as skirt suits, nurse’s uniforms, work overalls, and mourning clothes, this volume brings to life the passionate debates that roiled the French fashion industry and reveals the extent to which fashion was a hotly contested topic and a barometer for social tensions throughout this tumultuous era.

Title: Fur
ISBN: 9780300227208
Format: BB
Authors: Jonathan Faiers
Pub. Date: 20201006

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The first and only book of its kind, Fur: A Sensitive History looks at the impact of fur on society, politics, and, of course, fashion. This material has a long, complex, and rich history, culminating in recent and ongoing anti-fur debates. Jonathan Faiers discusses how fur—long praised for its warmth, softness, and connotation of status—became so controversial, at the center of campaigns against animal cruelty and the movement toward ethical fashion. At the same time, fake fur now faces a backlash of its own, given the environmental impact of its manufacture and its links to fast fashion.
 
Divided into five sections—dedicated to hair, pelt, coat, skin, and fleece—the book surveys not only the politics of fur but also its centrality to western fashion, the tactile pleasure it gives, and its use in literature, art, and film. This thoughtfully reasoned, eloquently written, and spectacularly illustrated examination of fur is both timely and essential, filling a gap in fashion scholarship and appealing to a broad audience.

Title: Guide to Basic Garment Assembly for the Fashion Industry
ISBN: 9781405198882
Format: BC
Authors: Jayne Smith
Pub. Date: 20130322
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons (UK)
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Garment assembly is fundamental to the creation of designs.  

This guide provides fashion students and designers with the knowledge of the techniques and components essential to the assembly of sewn products. 

Guide to Basic Garment Assembly for the Fashion Industry develops your understanding of which stitch and seam types to select for particular fabrics and garments.  As well as the knowledge to construct a range of basic techniques to assemble entire garments using the correct components. 

It can be difficult to master the skills of garment assembly by reading alone: a visual demonstration of online videos, showing the steps of garment assembly for the following: 

  • Sewing darts 
  • Sewing front edge fastenings
  • Inserting zip fastenings                 
  • Attaching waistbands
  • Assembling and attaching simple and complex pockets
  • Sleeve opening construction
  • Assembling and attaching cuffs
  • Assembling and attaching collars                                                        
Guide to Basic Garment Assembly for the Fashion Industry explains the essentials so you can turn your design ideas into reality

Title: Handbags
ISBN: 9780300186185
Format: BB
Authors: Claire Wilcox Judith Clark Adam Phillips
Pub. Date: 20120815

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An exploration of the role of the handbag in the history of culture, fashion, and material production

The history of the handbag—its design, how it has been made, used, and worn—reveals something essential about women's lives over the past 500 years. Perhaps the most universal item of fashionable adornment, it can also be elusive, an object of desire, secrecy, and even fear. Handbags explores these rich histories and multiple meanings.

This book features specially commissioned photographs of an extraordinary, newly formed collection of fashionable handbags that date from the 16th century to the present day. It has been acquired for exhibition in the first museum devoted to the handbag, in Seoul, South Korea. The project is a commission undertaken by experimental exhibition-maker Judith Clark, whose innovative practices are revealed in Handbags.

Essays by leading fashion historians and an acclaimed psychoanalyst investigate the history of gesture, the psychoanalysis of bags, and the museum's state-of-the-art mannequins and archive cabinets. In order to preserve the words that describe the unique qualities of each bag, a terminology of handbags has been compiled.


Title: Heavenly Bodies
ISBN: 9781588396457
Format: BB
Authors: Andrew Bolton
Pub. Date: 20180529

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A brilliant exploration of fashion’s complex engagement with the great art and artifacts of Catholic faith and practice

Since antiquity, religious beliefs and practices have inspired many of the masterworks of art. These works of art have, in turn, fueled the imagination of fashion designers in the 20th and 21st centuries, yielding some of the most innovative creations in costume history. Connecting significant religious art and artifacts to their sartorial expressions, Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination provides a critical analysis of fashion’s engagement with notions of the divine. Exploring fashion’s complex and often controversial relationship with Catholicism, Heavenly Bodies probes what dress reveals about the state of religion and spirituality within contemporary culture, and how it may manifest—or subvert—Catholic values and ideology. Art objects, such as devotional paintings and altarpieces from The Met’s collection, are presented alongside fashions from designers including Cristóbal Balenciaga, Callot Soeurs, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Madame Grès, Christian Lacroix, Karl Lagerfeld, Jeanne Lanvin, Claire McCardell, Alexander McQueen, Thierry Mugler, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Gianni Versace. The volume also presents a selection of ecclesiastical vestments and accessories from the Vatican collection, many of which have not been published before. 

Title: Honolulu Street Style
ISBN: 9781783203079
Format: BC
Authors: Andrew Reilly Malie Moran Attila Pohlmann
Pub. Date: 20140215

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Hawai'i is one of the most ethnically and racially diverse places in the world due to its central location in the Pacific. Situated at the crossroads of different cultures, Honolulu has a style all of its own. Honolulu Street Style captures this unique approach as it demonstrates how global trends are transformed by stylish Honolulu denizens to give them a unique, local look. Divided into chapters on hair, hats, accessories, and beachwear, the book features the styles of people encountered on the street and in many different neighborhoods, with an essay on the history and clothing of Hawai'i as a whole.?
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The neighborhood fashion explored includes that of iconic?Waikiki?which conjures images most people associate with Hawai'i, yet the mass-produced tourist clothing belies a deeper fashion culture hidden in local enclaves and local boutiques that foster an upscale, casual style. Chinatown is a neighborhood of dramatic color and exotic touches, and hosts ?First Friday? events that transform the neighborhood into a crowded hub of artistic, musical, and retail activity. As the photos show, the Kaka'ako neighborhood draws a crowd that is hip, traveled, and not afraid to venture off the beaten path. In contrast, the Manoa?valley, home to the flagship campus of the University of Hawai'i, presents itself as an eclectic mix of students and professionals dressed in everything from boho chic to surfer, skater, avant-garde, and casual professional style.
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A highly visual book with full-color street style photography, Honolulu Street Style will be a landmark publication in the study of place and style.

Title: In Pursuit of Fashion
ISBN: 9781588396969
Format: BB
Authors: Andrew Bolton Jessica Regan Melissa Huber
Pub. Date: 20191210

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Presenting outstanding costumes and insightful texts about one of the greatest private collections of 20th-century fashion

This handsome volume explores the modern discipline of fashion collecting, presenting remarkable works from one of the greatest private collection of 20th-century costume. This group of clothing and accessories, assembled over several decades by Sandy Schreier, includes many rare and historically significant pieces that define key moments in fashion. Her collection features not only iconic garments by established designers but also looks by pioneering couturiers rarely represented in museum collections. Outstanding works, by designers that include Gilbert Adrian, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Boué Soeurs, Gabrielle  Chanel, Christian Dior, Mariano Fortuny, Karl Lagerfeld, Paul Poiret, and Valentina, are illustrated with new photography by fashion photographer Nicholas Cope.
 
An informative introduction traces the progress of her collecting from its roots in Detroit to the present day. The book also includes descriptions of over 80 works, including garments, accessories, and rare designer drawings, in addition to a lively interview with Schreier by Andrew Bolton that reveals her collecting philosophy.

Title: Jewels by JAR
ISBN: 9780300198683
Format: BB
Authors: Adrian Sassoon
Pub. Date: 20131115

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Called ?the Fabergé of our time? by Diane von Furstenberg, Joel A. Rosenthal, who works in Paris under the name JAR, is one of the most acclaimed jewelry designers of the past thirty years. JAR is known for his use of precious and semi-precious stones resplendent with myriad shades of vibrant color and set in organic shapes: one brooch, for instance, features lifelike petals in subtly differentiated hues, made from a thousand pavé sapphires and amethysts. The New York Times has described his jewelry as ?belligerent, stubborn, audacious, funny, contradictory,? while JAR himself has characterized his work as ?somewhere between geometry and a bouquet of flowers.? This book, featuring nearly 40 pieces from throughout JAR?s career, provides a concise, accessible, elegantly designed retrospective of the best of his jewelry creations, and is the only book of its kind on his work available in English.

Title: Little Black Dress
ISBN: 9781883982843
Format: BC
Authors: Shannon Meyer
Pub. Date: 20160415

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“Entertaining reading.”—Wall Street Journal

What’s the most important garment in a woman’s closet? More often than not, the answer is “the little black dress.” For decades, fashion magazines have touted the LBD as the perfect solution to almost every fashion crisis. Dressed up or down, with flats or heels, statement jewelry or a subdued jacket, the little black dress can be worn anywhere, for any occasion. Where did the little black dress come from? And how did black become the color of choice for every occasion?

In Little Black Dress, Shannon Meyer answers these questions by offering a visual history of the black dress, illustrating its transformation from a traditional mourning garment to the fashion staple it is today. Beginning with the Victorian era, Meyer describes how widows were required to wear plain black clothing with no decoration for one year and a day, as a symbol of full mourning. This gave way to concepts such as “ordinary” and “half” mourning that allowed for different fabrics and embellishments. Then, in the early twentieth century, women began to slowly adopt black into their everyday wardrobe, and, in the 1920s, Coco Chanel launched her revolutionary first line of black dresses, advertising them as versatile, affordable, and fashionable choices for women. As Meyer shows, other designers quickly followed suit, and black has since prevailed as a universal, ever appropriate, always fashionable choice.

Richly illustrated with seventy-five full-color photos of dresses and accessories spanning 150 years, and including information about the designer, original owner, and historical context for each, readers will find Little Black Dress a stylish guide to this wardrobe essential. Designed to accompany an exhibit by the same name at the Missouri History Museum, the book will impress historians and fashionistas alike.

Title: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear
ISBN: 9781444335057
Format: BB
Authors: Winifred Aldrich
Pub. Date: 20150206
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons (UK)
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Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear provides a straightforward introduction to the principles of form pattern cutting for garments to fit the body shape, and flat pattern cutting for casual garments and jersey wear.

This sixth edition remains true to the original concept: it offers a range of good basic blocks, an introduction to the basic principles of pattern cutting and examples of their application into garments. 

Fully revised and updated to include a brand new and improved layout, up-to-date skirt and trouser blocks that reflect the changes in body sizing, along with updates to the computer-aided design section and certain blocks, illustrations and diagrams.

This best-selling textbook still remains the essential purchase for students and beginners looking to understand pattern cutting and building confidence to develop their own pattern cutting style.


Title: Paris Refashioned, 1957-1968
ISBN: 9780300226072
Format: BB
Authors: Colleen Hill
Pub. Date: 20170226

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A captivating look at Parisian fashions of the 1960s and how the ready-to-wear revolution influenced haute couture

The 1960s was one of the most exciting periods in fashion history, as shifting cultural paradigms were embraced by a generation of designers that challenged conventions and reinvented the fashion industry. This compelling volume focuses on the important but too often dismissed fashions that were created in Paris during this time. From the early couture designs of Yves Saint Laurent that initiated a trend toward a more relaxed and youthful style, to the popularity of ready-to-wear fashions by Emmanuelle Khanh – part of a new group known as the stylists – this book traces the development of Parisian fashion during the 1960s and its continuing legacy.
 
Colleen Hill features eye-catching images from Elle and Vogue, as well as stunning examples of fashion from The Museum at FIT’s world-class collection. She provides an in-depth look at the combined influences of French haute couture, ready-to-wear, and popular culture during this era. In doing so, she describes how the dominance of haute couture was challenged by the ready-to-wear movement, resulting in the rise of a vibrant, youthful, and modern aesthetic in Parisian fashion. 

Title: Pious Fashion
ISBN: 9780674241602
Format: BC
Authors: Elizabeth Bucar
Pub. Date: 20190813

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Who says you can't be pious and fashionable? Throughout the Muslim world, women have found creative ways of expressing their personality through the way they dress. Headscarves can be modest or bold, while brand-name clothing and accessories are part of a multimillion-dollar ready-to-wear industry that caters to pious fashion from head to toe. In this lively snapshot, Elizabeth Bucar takes us to Iran, Turkey, and Indonesia and finds a dynamic world of fashion, faith, and style.

?Brings out both the sensuality and pleasure of sartorial experimentation.?
?Times Literary Supplement

?I defy anyone not to be beguiled by [Bucar's] generous-hearted yet penetrating observation of pious fashion in Indonesia, Turkey and Iran? Bucar uses interviews with consumers, designers, retailers and journalists?to examine the presumptions that modest dressing can't be fashionable, and fashion can't be faithful.?
?Times Higher Education

?Bucar disabuses readers of any preconceived ideas that women who adhere to an aesthetic of modesty are unfashionable or frumpy.?
?Robin Givhan, Washington Post

?A smart, eye-opening guide to the creative sartorial practices of young Muslim women? Bucar's lively narrative illuminates fashion choices, moral aspirations, and social struggles that will unsettle those who prefer to stereotype than inform themselves about women's everyday lives in the fast-changing, diverse societies that constitute the Muslim world.?
?Lila Abu-Lughod, author of Do Muslim Women Need Saving?


Title: Pious Fashion
ISBN: 9780674976160
Format: BB
Authors: Elizabeth Bucar
Pub. Date: 20170904

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For many Westerners, the Islamic veil is the ultimate sign of women's oppression. But Liz Bucar's take on clothing worn by Muslim women is a far cry from this older feminist attitude toward veiling. She argues that modest clothing represents much more than social control or religious orthodoxy. Today, headscarves are styled to frame the head and face in interesting ways, while colors and textures express individual tastes and challenge aesthetic preconceptions. Brand-name clothing and accessories serve as conveyances of social distinction and are part of a multimillion-dollar ready-to-wear industry. Even mainstream international chains are offering lines especially for hijabis. More than just a veil, this is pious fashion from head to toe, which engages with a range of aesthetic values related to moral authority, consumption, and selfhood.

Writing in an appealing style based on first-hand accounts, Bucar invites readers to join her in three Muslim-majority nations as she surveys how women approach the question "What to wear?" By looking at fashion trends in the bustling cities of Tehran, Yogyakarta, and Istanbul-and at the many ways clerics, designers, politicians, and bloggers try to influence Muslim women's choices-she concludes that pious fashion depends to a large extent on local aesthetic and moral values, rather than the dictates of religious doctrine.

Pious Fashion defines modesty in Islamic dress as an ever-changing social practice among Muslim women who-much like non-Muslim women-create from a range of available clothing items and accessories styles they think will look both appropriate and attractive.


Title: Pretty Gentlemen
ISBN: 9780300217469
Format: BB
Authors: Peter McNeil
Pub. Date: 20180320

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The term “macaroni” was once as familiar a label as “punk” or “hipster” is today. In this handsomely illustrated book devoted to notable 18th-century British male fashion, award-winning author and fashion historian Peter McNeil brings together dress, biography, and historical events with the broader visual and material culture of the late 18th century. For thirty years, macaroni was a highly topical word, yielding a complex set of social, sexual, and cultural associations. Pretty Gentlemen is grounded in surviving dress, archival documents, and art spanning hierarchies and genres, from scurrilous caricature to respectful portrait painting. Celebrities hailed and mocked as macaroni include politician Charles James Fox, painter Richard Cosway, freed slave Julius "Soubise," and criminal parson Reverend Dodd. The style also rapidly spread to neighboring countries in cross-cultural exchange, while Horace Walpole, George III, and Queen Charlotte were active critics and observers of these foppish men. 
 

Title: Shanghai Street Style
ISBN: 9781841505381
Format: BC
Authors: Vicki Karaminas Toni Johnson-Woods
Pub. Date: 20130415

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Although fashion fixtures and A-list celebrities pack the front rows at the biggest, most glamorous shows at fashion week, the most creative attire is often found not on the catwalks or inside the auditoriums but on the streets. Nowhere is this more evident than in the cosmopolitan city of Shanghai, where a vintage Vivienne Westwood frock pairs perfectly with a chic puffer, and neon brights elevate distressed denim to veritable haute couture.

Shanghai Street Style marksthe inaugural volume in an exciting new street style series from Intellect. With an array of up-and-coming young designers like Coko Wan, Nio, and Helen Lee, Shanghai is swiftly cementing its status as a global fashion destination—its first fashion week was in 2011—and this book brings together more than one hundred full-color photographs showcasing the remarkable diversity of styles seen on its streets. Alongside the photographs are short pieces of critical commentary by Vicki Karaminas and Toni Johnson-Woods, shedding light on the city’s changing culture and how this is expressed through the clothing choices of ordinary city-dwellers going about their daily routines. The result is a stunning street-level look at the trends shaping Shanghai’s fascinating fashion scene, with interesting echoes of East meets West and old meets new.
 
Eye-catching, entertaining, and informative, Shanghai Street Style gets at the roots of Shanghai trendsetters’ distinct personal styles, identifying the ideas and important cultural forces behind the trends.

Title: Shoe Obsession
ISBN: 9780300190793
Format: BB
Authors: Valerie Steele Colleen Hill
Pub. Date: 20130409

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An astute exploration of the most outrageous shoe designs of the 21st century

This fabulously illustrated book explores western culture’s fascination with extravagant and fashionable shoes. Over the past decade, shoe design has become increasingly central to fashion, with fashion companies paying ever more attention to shoes and other accessories. High-heeled shoes, in particular, have become the fashion accessory of the 21st century.

Co-written by one of the world’s leading historians of fashion and an authority on fashion accessories, the book features approximately 150 pairs of the most extreme and ultra-fashionable styles of the past 12 years, including work by such prominent designers as Manolo Blahnik, Pierre Hardy, Christian Louboutin and Bruno Frisoni for Roger Vivier, as well as shoes by influential design houses such as Azzedine Alaïa, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, and Prada. Avant-garde styles by up-and-coming designers such as Japan’s Kei Kagami and Noritaka Tatehana are also highlighted.

Shoe Obsession examines recent extreme and fantastical shoe styles in relation to the history of high heels, the role of shoes as a reflection of their wearers’ personality traits, and the importance of shoes in art and exhibitions. The book is lavishly illustrated with full-color photographs of spectacular contemporary shoe designs.


Title: Stuart Style
ISBN: 9780300240368
Format: BB
Authors: Maria Hayward
Pub. Date: 20200310

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A brilliant book revealing the complex messages that Stuart fashion conveyed about individual rulers’ personalities, and about kingship more broadly

This is the first detailed analysis of elite men’s clothing in 17th-century Scotland and its influence on English male fashion. Focusing on the years 1566 through 1701, it centers on the clothing choices of five Stuart royals: James VI and I, Prince Henry, Charles I, Charles II, and James VII and II.
 
The engaging text brims with details about the wardrobes and habits of Scottish royalty, such as how the men selected fabric and kept clothes clean. The book is organized along three themes: the significance of the Stuarts’ Scottish heritage in the style they developed; the role of Scots in exporting their style to London and beyond; and the reception of Stuart style among the male elite in Scotland. Maria Hayward explores how Stuart style was displayed in sport, at political and social events, and at church. The book also reveals the importance of vital supporting players—namely, the courtiers who helped kings and princes develop their style, as well as the tailors who disseminated it to men beyond the royal court.

Title: The Age of Undress
ISBN: 9780300241204
Format: BB
Authors: Amelia Rauser
Pub. Date: 20200310

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Neoclassicism recast as a feminine, progressive movement through the lens of empire-style fashion, as well as related art and literature

The Age of Undress explores the emergence and meaning of neoclassical dress in the 1790s, tracing its evolution from Naples to London and Paris over the course of a single decade. The neoclassical style of clothing—often referred to as robe à la grecque, empire style, or “undress”—is marked by a sheer, white, high-waisted muslin dress worn with minimal undergarments, often accessorized with a cashmere shawl. This style represented a dramatic departure from that of previous decades and was short lived: by the 1820s, corsets, silks, and hoop skirts were back in fashion.
 
Amelia Rauser investigates this sudden transformation and argues that women styled themselves as living statues, artworks come to life, an aesthetic and philosophical choice intertwined with the experiments and innovations of artists working in other media during the same period. Although neoclassicism is often considered a cold, rational, and masculine movement, Rauser’s analysis shows that it was actually deeply passionate, with women at its core—as ideals and allegories, as artistic agents, and as important patrons.

Title: The Bloomsbury Look
ISBN: 9780300244113
Format: BB
Authors: Wendy Hitchmough
Pub. Date: 20201013

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An in-depth study of how the famed Bloomsbury Group expressed their liberal philosophies and collective identity in visual form

The Bloomsbury Group was a loose collective of forward-thinking writers, artists, and intellectuals in London, with Virginia Woolf, John Maynard Keynes, and E. M. Forster among its esteemed members. The group’s works and radical beliefs, spanning literature, economics, politics, and non-normative relationships, changed the course of 20th-century culture and society. Although its members resisted definition, their art and dress imparted a coherent, distinctive group identity.

Drawing on unpublished photographs and extensive new research, The Bloomsbury Look is the first in-depth analysis of how the Bloomsbury Group generated and broadcast its self-fashioned aesthetic. One chapter is dedicated to photography, which was essential to the group’s visual narrative—from casual snapshots, to amateur studio portraits, to family albums. Others examine the Omega Workshops as a design center, and the evidence for its dress collections, spreading the Bloomsbury aesthetic to the general public. Finally, the book considers the group’s extensive participation in 20th-century modernism as artists, models, curators, critics, and collectors.

Title: The Pocket
ISBN: 9780300253740
Format: BC
Authors: Barbara Burman Ariane Fennetaux
Pub. Date: 20200512

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The unexpected story of an essential 18th and 19th century accessory

This fascinating and enlightening study of the tie-on pocket combines materiality and gender to provide new insight into the social history of women’s everyday lives—from duchesses and country gentry to prostitutes and washerwomen—and to explore their consumption practices, sociability, mobility, privacy, and identity. A wealth of evidence reveals unexpected facets of the past, bringing women’s stories into intimate focus.
 
“What particularly interests Burman and Fennetaux is the way in which women of all classes have historically used these tie-on pockets as a supplementary body part to help them negotiate their way through a world that was not built to suit them.”—Kathryn Hughes, The Guardian
 
“A riveting book . . . few stones are left unturned.”—Roberta Smith’s “Top Art Books of 2019,” The New York Times
 
“A brilliant book.”—Ulinka Rublack, Times Literary Supplement

Title: The Rose in Fashion
ISBN: 9780300250084
Format: BB
Authors: Amy de la Haye
Pub. Date: 20200908

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An exploration of how the rose—the most ravishingly beautiful and symbolic of flowers—has inspired fashion over hundreds of years

The Rose in Fashion: Ravishing is a fascinating exploration of how the rose has inspired the way we look, dress, feel, and fantasize. It foregrounds innovative, refined, and challenging fashion design from elite 18th-century woven silks to the latest gender-neutral catwalk trends and Alexander McQueen rose dresses. Drawing upon fashion clothing, everyday dress, millinery, fine jewelry, perfume, and artificial and fresh roses, multiple expert contributors make reference to love, beauty, sex, sin, gendered identities, rites of passage, transgression, degradation, and death. This sumptuously illustrated book also includes a contribution and stunning images of roses by visionary photographer Nick Knight. Wild yet cultivated, savage yet delicate, this flower has remained an enduring symbol perhaps due to its versatility and the dichotomies it represents.

Title: Wiener Chic
ISBN: 9781783201846
Format: BC
Authors: Susan Ingram Markus Reisenleitner
Pub. Date: 20140215

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Vienna may not be synonymous with fashion like its metropolitan counterparts Paris and Milan, but it is a fashionable city, one that historically has been structured by changing fashions and fashionable appearances. Like the LitfaÖ?säule in Orson Welles's 1949 urban noir masterpiece?The Third Man, into which Harry Lime escapes in order to avoid capture and which hapless visitors today presume are merely surfaces for advertising, there are many overlooked aspects of Vienna's distinct style and attitude. By focusing on fashion,?Wiener Chic?narrates Vienna's history through an interpretation of the material dimensions of Viennese cultural life-from architecture to arts festivals to the urban fabric of street chic.

The first book that connects Vienna and fashion with urban theory,?Wiener Chic?draws on material that is virtually unknown in an English-language context to give readers an insider's vantage point on an underappreciated European fashion capital.

Title: Zandra Rhodes
ISBN: 9780300244304
Format: BB
Authors:
Pub. Date: 20190910

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Celebrating decades of achievement by one of the foremost names in British fashion, whose vitality and influence continue to shine

Zandra Rhodes provides a luscious documentary of this leading British designer, spanning her 50-year career in fashion and textile design. The book showcases not only Rhodes’s work but also her vivid personality and creative energy. Both a fashion trailblazer and a consummate textile designer, she has influenced the work of contemporary labels such as Mary Katrantzou and Alice Temperley. The book honors the centrality of textile design in Rhodes’s work, while exploring the versatility of her imagination throughout her long career; contributors include Pierpaolo Piccioli (creative director of Valentino), Suzy Menkes (editor of Vogue International), and celebrated fashion designers Anna Sui and Rajeev Sethi. It also commemorates the 50th anniversary of the house of Zandra Rhodes, a British-owned and -made brand, and Rhodes’s successful establishment of the Fashion and Textile Museum in London.